Climbing Reddomain - 6000m Expedition

What to Expect

A Technical Climb

Mt. Reddomain is a technical mountain to climb comparing to other 6000er mountains available in China. It is one of the challenging mountains that are available. An expedition to Reddomain requires skilled using of gears, physical level, technical skills. Climbing Reddomain gives you good training on experiences of technical climbs, good confidence, and a stronger sense of achievement even than many higher mountains due to its difficulty level. Technical Mountain means not only basic skills & high altitude experiences but also skills of walking on snow ridge, more sophisticated roping skills, protection, descending, and even ice-climbing skills. There is more gain of technical skills climbing Reddomain.

A Real Expedition

There are only a few who had summited Mt. Reddomain due to its difficulty. It’s a much more challenging mountain compared to other 6000er or even 7000er. Many use MA as a necessary training peak before summit to 8000er while forgetting some 6000er mountains are also good options (sometimes even better). The requirements on your physical performance, the training on techniques, real expedition-like experience on mixed climb, etc. From C1 to C2 there is a section of highly exposed traverse beside ridgeline and approaching the summit of Mt. Reddomain it is 60-70 degree steep climb……

A Good-Looking Mountain

Mt. Reddomain is above all, a good-looking mountain too. Glacier with lakes, rocky face and snowy ridgeline……

A Just-Right Challenge

Comparing to other established 6000er such as Mt. Yuzhu and Mt. Chola, Mt. Reddomain is more technical and hence more difficult and more challenging. Comparing to other 6000er in the Minya Konka Massif, Mt. Reddomain West Ridge is relatively an easy route and accessible to many people who have had experiences as a beginner in climbing.

Service Details

Service-Oriented Expeditions

• Most comfortable possible BC;
• Detailed expedition briefing;
• Light-packing while the heavy gears are taken care by the packhorses;
• High-quality gears;
• Separate Kitchen by BC, clean drinking water;
• Electricity at BC available;
• Activity tents and toilet tents;
• Variety of food choices provided by experienced outdoor chef;

Well-experienced Mountain Guides

• Years of training and climbing;
• Guides did the west ridge route first and has the knowledge about the climb;
• Guide knows the risks and the counter-measures;
• All guides have AHA certificate;

Safety is Everything

• Most suficient possible acclimating as shown in the program;
• High pressure Oxygen Cabin;
• Well-equipped communication gear including satellite phone and radios;
• Medical support including oxygon;
• First response system

Before Signing Up

• a. Exprience of former treks, climbs at high altitude including at least one trip to above 5000m that requires beginner technical climbs (Mt. Banji, Mt. Duri, Mt. Nama, Mt. Yuzhu or Mt. Chola), experience of climbing on snow & ice, rope-involved climbs.
• b. More climbing techniques or ice-climbing experiences will help a successful summit to Mt. Reddomain but these are not mandatory.
• Light-packing while the heavy gears are taken care by the packhorses;
• c. A form will be sent to you for personal experience checking and assessment according to each individual based on your experience etc.
• d. Know climbing gears including technical gears, know different terrain requires different techniques, know how to use ropes, ascending and descending, know how to take care of yourself at high altitude.
• e. If you are not sure about if you are up to this trip, please send your inquiry.
• f. A healthy physical condition is required before sign up. You are not opt to sign up such trip if you have any major ailments, cardiovascular disease; heart cerebrovascular disease; cardio-cerebrovascular disease, diabetes, cardiac disease, etc, any former surgeries shall be made known to us. Consult your doctor before sign up for such trip.
• g. Advices given by your guide is crucial. There are unpredictables in a climbing trip, signing up on such trip may expect minor or even major changes of plan. Safety is the first priority under any circumstances. All mountain guides are working under safety guidelines in a climbing trip. Any injuries or death caused by factors out of our control or by your own activity against our suggestion, will be on your own responsibility.
• h. Please care nature and take your trash with you all the time, don’t harm plants and animals;
• i. Please give care to the gears provided.

Climbing Techniques Breakdown

Exposed Climb

From C1 and above, most of the climb is on ridgeline: you will have good views but it can also be windy and brings psychological pressure. It is a very exposed climb.

Long Climb on Snow/Ice

Above the snow the climb is on 30-40 degree or steeper of ascending. It requires long hours of ascending on the ridge that is not super steep but can hardly find any place to take a decent break. Techniques of walking on such terrain and try rely less on the rope but rather techniques of your walking. A high endurance is required.

Traversing on Snow

Important climbing techniques that is required especially before the summit to Reddomain. Such technique will require climber to also use ice tools and crampons

Risks Counter-Measurements

Adequate Acclimating: 12 days total, 11 days minimum, acclimating days before reach BC at 4600m, more acclimating after BC to gradually build up the orientation of your body to the altitude. A higher chance of summiting.

Choose the Right Season: From end of August to the beginning of October is the best season to climb Mt. Reddomain.

Knowledge of Route: The team started to explore Reddomain from as early as 2014 and has sufficient knowledge of the place and its weather. The team has had scouting trips and established the western ridge for the first time ever and assessed the route and locations of fixed rope, anchors and choices of camps.

Q and A

From C1 to C2 the ridge of screes seems too much and feels much exposed, what happens when someone needs to evacuate/go down?

From C1 to C2 there is fixed rope for protection, you will also be guided through and your we will also ask for your physical condition all the time. You will be escorted down should you suffer AMS or other ailments while the rest of the team continues. One of the strength of our team is we will have a sufficient-staffed team to make sure every climber’s concern is taken care.

For first-timers, traversing seems to be scary, how to cope?

It’s true for first-timers especially when you are exposed. Confidence is built up through experience and you can first rely on the gears and build up your confidence by practicing step by step.

Comparing to Mt. Chola and Mt. Yuzhu, which one is more difficult?

Mt. Reddomain is more challenging and more difficult than Mt. Chola (Chola Classic Route). Mt. Reddomain has more complicated scree sections, long exposed ice/snow climb and harder and longer steep parts. 1500-m protection distance while Mt. Chola only has 400-m protection distance. Mt. Yuzhu is the easiest of all.

Any rock climbing gears for climbing Mt. Reddomain?

Not necessary as the anchors and ropes will be set up by your guides.

What’s the weather factor to the summiting? What if the weather is not suited for summiting?

Weather is indeed a very important factor for summiting. Except for extreme weather conditions, a summit will be planned. We have fixed ropes and experienced guides who have been up here and one more buffering day to wait for the bad weather to pass.

What’s the ratio of Mountain Guide VS Climber?

It will be between 1:1 and 1:3 throughout the trip. It won't be fixed but rather according to the actual situation.

Mt. Reddomain Climbing History

• September 1999 first summit made by a Japanese team.
• September 2009 first team summit and ski down.
• September 2011 first Chinese team made summit, route from west ridge to NW ridge to summit was named “Ridge of Crocodile”
• October 2011 another Chinese team summited from its north side.
• November 2018, new route from north face to east ridge was made by another Chinese team.
• August 2020, first summit by Leadclimb and group of 8 people made summit.